An Uneven Tenor Honeymoon

Hello dear readers! I know it’s been forever since I’ve posted. My excuse is that I’ve been busy with lots of wonderful things. One of those things... Read More

Breaking the Radio Silence

Hi friends!  Long time no see.  My apologies for the extended silence, but know that Richard Halliburton and this whole crazy adventure have never been far... Read More

Harbin: Frozen Adventures in China's Far North

One of the most intriguing places Richard Halliburton visited during his first round-the-world trip in 1921-1923 was Harbin, a small city in far northern China.... Read More

My Top 10 Travel Moments of 2015

Over the past year I had countless incredible experiences in eight diverse countries. From Jordan to Hong Kong, here are my top 10 travel moments... Read More

The best foods I ate in China

During one of my daily strolls through the Beijing hutong where I lived at the end of 2015, passing shops full of food that was, if... Read More

Uneven Tenor in 2016

Happy New Year to my wonderful readers! It’s past time to break the radio silence I’ve been maintaining for the past several weeks and get... Read More

Ten Survival Tips for Travel in China

I’m no novice traveler, but China still threw me for a loop. Every time I thought I understood something, China would pull the rug right... Read More

Beijing Dinosaurs: A Photo Essay of 100 Years of Change

For the past two years and seventeen countries, it has been my mission to forge a connection with the past through extraordinary acts of imagination while... Read More

Life in a Beijing Hutong

It’s been three weeks since I returned to Beijing from my jaunt through Japan.  If you’ll remember from my last Beijing post (and all the complaining... Read More

Sassy foxes and sailor blood

Though my trip to Japan may have been leisurely by some standards, hitting six destinations in sixteen days was not my typical speed. It was,... Read More

Great Stone Serpent, Bridge of Heaven

Richard Halliburton has left me a thin trail to follow in Asia, and piecing together his breadcrumbs feels like a treasure hunt. Regarding Beijing, in his letters... Read More

Beijing: Just Grin and Bear It

How’s that for an uplifting title? The truth is I’m struggling in Beijing.  But it’s not Beijing’s fault.  Beijing is just being a city, and... Read More

Why Beijing feels so foreign

I can’t believe I’ve been in Beijing for a whole week.  Maybe that surprises me because I’ve done relatively little in that time.  More likely... Read More

The adventure continues

Hello to all after a long period of silence!  After saving it to the very last possible minute, I’m finally writing to explain my  somewhat atypical... Read More

Carry-On Travel Packing List Review

There are countless online article about what to pack for travel, including my own here, but there are very few articles that revisit the subject... Read More

What to do in Jordan for two weeks

When I mentioned that I was going to spend two weeks in Jordan, people (the neighboring Israelis in particular) were aghast. What could I possibly... Read More

How much does travel cost?

I’m one of those people who habitually keeps track of everything numeric, from the number of sit-ups I complete in a week, to the amount... Read More

Safe at home, but far from done

Greetings to all my beautiful readers!  After seven months of travel, I have been home now for two weeks.  I wanted to take a moment... Read More

Stormy skies and bloody history

We stepped off the minibus at an inconspicuous road junction high in the flat-topped mountains that rise above the Dead Sea. Wind whipped my hair... Read More

Going home: ten things I'm excited for

I’m entering the last two weeks of a seven-month trip, and I’m keenly feeling the allure of home.  Here are just ten of the many... Read More

Adventuring beneath Jerusalem

I put one of my favorite Richard Halliburton quotes to the test the other day while exploring Jerusalem’s subterranean wonders: “The more imagination one has,... Read More

My Top Ten Moments of 2014

As a traveler, people often ask me to list my ‘best’ or ‘favorite’ things, like, “What was best experience on your trip?” or “What’s your... Read More

Preconceptions of Palestine

“Thanks! Er, toda!” I called over my shoulder as I stepped out of the car. The two Israeli soldiers who’d given me a ride to... Read More

Ebola-free in Israel

I’m going to change things up a bit, and instead of writing an “article” format piece, I’m going to write more of a “casual letter”... Read More

The Real Morocco

I’ll admit it: Richard Halliburton was not at the front of my mind during most of my travels in Morocco. It’s not that Richard’s memory... Read More

Explaning diving to non-divers

I want so badly to tell everyone how amazingly and mind-blowingly fantastic my week of Red Sea diving was. However, not many of my friends... Read More

Egypt: it's a love-hate thing

Writing about Egypt is difficult.  I guess a good place to start is by answering the question, “Do I even like Egypt?”  Unfortunately, I think... Read More

Update: The evolution of Uneven Tenor

When it comes to travel, I’m not big on planning.  I’ll typically set a vague path for myself, knowing that my actual destinations and the... Read More

Tanks, barbed wire and mummies--a day at the museum in Cairo

Cairo is a big, noisy, filthy city.  It doesn’t hum with organized activity—it roars with  mayhem.  Lanes on the road are suggestions to be blatantly... Read More

Insider's Tour of Fort Collins, Colorado, USA

These past two weeks I’ve found myself in a delightful situation—being a visitor in my own city.  Between visits with friends both in and out... Read More

The grave and the goats

The bus roars away in a cloud of diesel exhaust, leaving me alone on a stretch of road that curves into the distance and disappears... Read More

Richard Halliburton's Drunken Marathon

Okay, so this is kind of cheating, but instead of sharing one of my stories this week, I’m going to share one of Richard’s.  While... Read More

Oracles and Odysseus

A Week in Greece This past week in Greece has been jammed full of adventure.  I couldn’t pick just one thing to write about, so... Read More

The Mountain of the Gods

The Mountain of the Gods crawled with tourists, but for once I didn’t care because, in my opinion, they were the best kind of tourists: ... Read More

How to climb Mount Olympus, Greece

On the list of iconic mountains of the world, Mount Olympus surely has a place.  Not only is it a geographically impressive peak, rising straight... Read More

Over my head: swimming the Hellespont

This whole “follow Richard Halliburton around the world” thing sometimes gets me in way over my head.  That figure of speech became literal this past... Read More

Istanbul: I wonder if...

I wonder what is was like when Richard Halliburton visited Istanbul in 1925. Did he prefer to sip sweet black tea or bitter Turkish coffee... Read More

Uneven Tenor status update

Hi everyone!  I realize I haven’t been posting much recently (except on my Facebook page, that’s been very active), and I apologize for my absence. ... Read More

A Hidden Gem: Great Saint Bernard Pass, Part II

…continued from Part I Rafael, being a canon of the Great Saint Bernard Hospice and a genuinely good person to boot, took our misplaced reservation... Read More

The Futility of Plans: Great Saint Bernard Pass, Part I

Over the years I’ve learned that making plans while traveling is a futile and frustrating exercise.  Connections are missed, weather changes, reservations are lost, illness... Read More

Explorations in Montreux

Standing on the edge of Lac Leman I stare skeptically at the clear water before me.  I can see smooth brown rocks fading into the... Read More

Quick update

Plans have changed a bit recently, and for reasons too boring to explain in detail I am unable to charge my computer this week, so... Read More

The Rhine River in Richard's Footsteps...kind of

I’m only one day out from my walk from Koblenz to Rudesheim along the Rhine River in Germany, and already the pain and exhaustion of... Read More

Hiking the Rheinsteig - a guide for foreigners

The Rheinsteig is a 190 mi (320 km) network of walking trails following the Rhine (Rhein) River in Germany from Bonn to Wiesbaden.  The network... Read More

How not to cycle across the Netherlands

Note:  be sure to check out the video at the end of this post! I suppose the past week could be summed up as “a wonderful debacle”.  Nothing... Read More

The impossible picture

I went to Berlin for one reason only:  to retake one of Richard Halliburton’s iconic photos from 1919.  It seemed like an easy project in... Read More

Bewildering Berlin: Portrait of a Complex City

Berlin made my brain hurt right from the moment I stepped off the U-bahn in the Kreuzberg neighborhood.  It was madness:  honking cars, exploding fireworks... Read More

Imagining Paris

Two years ago, when I started plotting my trip around the world to recreate Richard Halliburton’s travels, I knew I would have a much different... Read More

Art (un)-appreciation 101

The only pieces of art I studied in school were the doodles I drew in the margins of my textbooks.  I knew who Michelangelo, Da Vinci and Vermeer were,... Read More

Carry-On Travel Packing List for Long-Term Travel

**NOTE: Be sure to read my post-travel review of this packing list to see what worked and what didn’t** It’s T minus 1 week until... Read More

Long overdue pre-trip update

The sidebar of my website is says I leave for my trip in 28 days, 2 hours and a handful of minutes.  In many ways... Read More

I sold my car for freedom

As I was walking home from my car sale today, license plates tucked under one arm, I texted my boyfriend to let him know I... Read More

Status update, February

Recently, a lot of people have been asking me about how my planning is coming along.  Aside from the occasional cryptic post on Facebook, I... Read More

58 peaks in 21 years

As I wrote about in my essay Pushing the Limits at 14,000 Feet, I finally completed a [literally] life-long goal of mine last year:  I... Read More

Pushing the limits at 14,000 feet

***Getting gutsy is all about stepping outside your comfort zone to reach your goals. I’m participating in Jessica Lawlor’s #GetGutsy Essay Contest. To get involved and... Read More


Recently there have been a lot of articles and cartoons going around Facebook and other sites about introverts, things like “23 signs you’re secretly an... Read More

El Fin del Mundo

Note from 1 November 2013:  Reading back on the time I spent in Ushuaia, Argentina always makes me smile and shake my head.  It’s a... Read More

Ascent of Huayna Potosi, Bolivia

Note from 16 October 2013:  How interesting it is to read this story again!  It’s amazing how experience dims and morphs through time.  In recent... Read More


Welcome everyone to Uneven Tenor, a project that aims to make everyone happier through travel, literature and history.  I hope you take the time to... Read More


  1. Sensacional! sem palavras!
    Ronaldo recently posted…Aprenda a Tocar Flauta TransversalMy Profile

  2. i enjoy reading your write ups its all awesome and my favorite part is ” I sold my car for freedom ” so sweet!

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